Tips on cleaning a Tesla Model S
By Steve Kirsch, updated 4/11/15
This page contains way too much info! When I have some time, I'll prune it down. I've moved the most important things to the front.
XPEL and 22PLE
You paint will stay in perfect condition for the life of the car if you do this one thing.
If you don't cover your car with XPEL
Bird bombs in high heat (summer day) can eat through sealants and into regular clear coat within a matter of just 15 minutes if it is in the hot sun (that is the difference between a permanent and temporary stain). A friend with an expensive car saw a bird dropping on his car, it sat for just 15 minutes, but it could not be removed from the paint! This is why paint protection films (PPF's) are really great. However, the PPF can be etched as well, but I've never seen that happen. You can coat your XPEL with 22PLE or something equivalent but I think that it is overkill.
Best way to get rid of bugs etc. safely is take a MF towel, soak it in lukewarm water, place it over the insect for 5 minutes to loosen it. Then you should be able to wipe it away using a shampoo or quick detailer.
The second most important thing to remember
Washing your car in <5 minutes
Use the duster every day. It takes a minute to do the entire car. Use the quick detailer once a week. If you have XPEL/22PLE on your car, you will not scratch anything even if the car is pretty dirty.
This technique works as long as the dirt isn't stuck on, i.e. the car has spent multiple times outside overnight where the dew can collect and then dry which turns the dust on the car to more of a mud (or the car has been driven in the rain).
For extra cleanliness (so that even when inspected in bright sunlight at various angles it is transparent), spray with distilled water and wipe dry using squeegee, newspaper, or a waffle weave microfiber towel (or use a blower which is best of all).
If the glass is perfectly clean, water should sheet on it (hydrophilic). To get that level of cleanliness, I use a mild car polish on the glass. The polish won't scratch the glass but it will get rid of any crap on the glass and your glass will turn hydrophilic. The downside is hydrophilic glass attracts more dirt. So it's super-clean, but not for long. So you can put CRL TPC Surface Protectant on it to seal it and cause it to become hydrophobic.
NOTE: Do not use any hydrophobic products on your front windshield or your wipers will studder.
And if you have water spots on shower doors, try CRL Bio-clean (check out the amazing reviews at Amazon).
Treating the leather
Clean with what you clean your windows with (e.g., invisible glass works just fine) or 303 wiper treatment. I think any rubber or leather conditioner would also work (since all leather conditioners work on rubber even though they don't say that but not vice versa so a rubber product may not work on leather). You will be astounded as to how dirty these get. I cleaned mine with a paper towel sprayed with Invisible Glass and had to run it through about 6 times until the towel came out clean!
If you want to keep your windshield from getting permanent scratch marks, I highly recommend cleaning your wiper blades every time you wash the car.
My Tesla feature wish list
A way to turn off the display for 60 seconds so you can clean the display without doing random things when you wipe with a microfiber.
An email address where you can email questions about the car or gripes. I can't believe you don't have this. Invaluable source of customer information.
They need to pick up the phone when you call Menlo Park. Everyone complains about this.
Front and back parking sensors each with 180 degrees of coverage: so two more than most manufacturers put in (i.e., add two more in front and back on the sides). This gives you side impact coverage in front and rear. Also, I think they should be placed low enough to detect you are hitting a bumper that is slightly higher than the car's clearance. I consider it a miracle I haven't dented the front of the car.
A front camera. Oh that would be SO awesome. Lines like on the backup camera would be a plus. I hate the lack of visibility in front.
"Guide Lines" on the screen like the Leaf has when you back up so you can see where you are going. Show the distance too. That would be cool.
A rear camera that is in the middle of the car instead of offset. Many people think it is centered and it isn't. This leads to goofs.
Fix the bluetooth sync memory so you can have 10,000 contacts and still sync.
Fit and finish adjustments. My hood doesn't align right and the guys at Fremont couldn't fix it. Also the left front panel juts out. That just shouldn't happen for a car this expensive.
An option to get XPEL over the entire car (I think this might be pretty popular if you explain why).
I wonder if people will pay for thicker paint then wet sanding the paint. Teslas like most cars, have orange peel on their factory paint. Only high end cars will be wet sanded to achieve a mirror finish on the paint. Not sure how many people would opt for this, but it would be cool. A lot of Tesla buyers aren't price sensitive.
Optional factory Vindico glass treatment (like RainX only lasts a year). I bet almost everyone would opt in for this. Coating lasts a year and water runs right off. Can be renewed at the annual service.
An organizer for the section in the front between the seats so you can store stuff without the ugliness of it being in plain sight.
Sleep mode so car isn't using 200 watts continuously.
Safe driving distance and collision preventer. Wouldn't it be cool if the car can't let you damage it at either low or high speeds. So at highway speeds it won't let you get closer than a car length. A parking speeds, it will cut down your speed if you get within a foot of something you are about to hit.
Fluorescent lamps are ruthless, revealing flaws and swirls that will not show under normal sunlight so this is the light you want.
In general, if you use wet sandpaper to sand the paint, you never want to go any less fine than 2000 grit or you will very quickly burn through your paint.
Paint cleaner (such as Pinnacle Paint Cleaner (Pinnacle Paintwork Cleansing Lotion) is even less abrasive than M205. Because it is softer than paint, it won't abrade the paint so if you have water spots that you can't get out, this is the second thing to try (your quick detailer is the first thing) because it can remove the water spots without messing with your paint.
SMAT = Super Microscopic Abrasive Technology
A guy who does Ferraris swears by Blue Coral Revive It DB finishing polish. It is a one-step painted surface cleaner with carnauba wax. It was very effective at removing water spots from my ping pong table using a porter cable.
Another option is Armor All AA256 which comes with lots of attachments, but you have to switch things out from dust to liquid inside (different filter). I like the range of accessories for this and it is compatible with the hose size of other vacs.
Vacmaster 5 gal.Wet/Dry Vac with Blower Function is 3HP and 223 ft³/min (which is very good), 9 lbs.
If you have a water spots, and a Quick Detailer won't take them out, then trying this is your next step because it isn't as abrasive as a polish. You can use with a Porter Cable. Here's a comment:
Car care in general
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&v=gTZchsxdq7A&NR=1 is a fantastic video on common mistakes.
Touchless car wash
New way to wash your car
Garry Dean's new method to wash a car (no 2 buckets): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=evFTeRxtEEo.
Do in shade or indoors ideally. Less than 10 gallons of water used.
How I wash
This is pretty good advice:
Don't use newspaper or paper towels: they are abrasive to plastic (try it on a CD
which is plastic and is generally softer than glass). Note that glass
hardness varies fom 5.5 to over 7 on the Mohs scale whereas plastic is at 1
and thus very easy to scratch. MF towels won't scratch a CD. Use a clean MF
towel folded into quarters and lightly draw it across your paint with no
pressure, but even that can scratch. Best is to pat down if you aren't
drying with a blower.
I use two-bucket system with grit guard. You rinse in the rinse bucket with grit guard before you put it back into the shampoo. Buy at AutoGeek.net. I also bought this mitt: http://www.autogeek.net/supreme-microfiber-wash-mitt.html (and it is REALLY soft).
The Lowe's proline grout sponge is supposed to be the best thing ever for washing your car. $1.99. But people cut the sponge into squares, so might as well use the Lake Country Foam Car Wash Sponge just use no pressure. Glide it over the surface. Rinse and reload often. Do a pattern like you mow the lawn.
The boar's hair brush (BHB) with a handle which makes things really fast. BHB's are reportedly gentler to your car's paint than wool and MF mitts; you don't trap any contaminants under it then take them for a ride on your paint under pressure. BHB's flick the contaminants off your paint. But you need to use the two bucket system with grit guard. Let it soak in the shampoo. And press *lightly* so you only use the tips of the bristles. But as that post shows, if you are in a hurry you may press down hard and that can cause problems. So I've avoided this.
If you don't use the bucket method, there is foam gun. autogeek has a nice foam gun. Rinse it all off so no detergent is on the vehicle. Do a section at a time to prevent detergent from drying on the vehicle. If using a pressure washer, use only detergent specifically for pressure washers and put only enough for your use, then run water through it to keep it from clogging, so you have to estimate correctly which is a pain. Do NOT wet the vehicle before you apply the foam!!! It just dilutes the foam!!! Tips here: http://www.autogeek.net/auqufofogun.html The smaller jar is perfectly fine. The advantage of foam is it is like a pre-soak since it stays on the car. The best analogy is your dishes....if you soak them in water for 5 minutes, stuff is much easier to remove from the plates. Just like you use shaving cream on your beard.
http://www.autogeek.net/detailingtips.html shows the steps (nice flow chart and tutorials are at the bottom). They basically say:
Note that you will not be able to remove dirt with touchless no matter how much water pressure you use. You have to mechanically remove the road grime (just like you have to brush your teeth).
So here's what to me makes the most sense:
Here's a nice video of a shorter and simpler method: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LBo76v2je44:
I didn't go for the water filter or soft water. Need to be recharged too often and you still have water spots if you let it dry (they are less prominent but it doesn't make the water completely soft). So you still have to dry.
Optimum No Rinse Car Wash
The less you touch the car the better. So I dry with a master blaster to get most of the water out and out of the crevices. Be sure to open all doors.
then I finish with a waffle wave MF towel with a LIGHT touch.
Fold towel into fours (so have 8 sides).
The hose gets flexible when it heats up.
They will be coming out with a model with swivel wheels. For now, you can put on your detailing cart. There is no heater. The heat comes from the unit itself. If you plug nothing else into a 15A circuit, it shouldn't trip the breaker. Otherwise, it will trip about 15 minutes into using it if you have both motors on. So run with both motors to do a "quick" dry on the car, then use single switch.
The quicker way is a waffle weave microfiber towel such as the Viking Microfiber Waffle Weave Drying Towel - 9 Square Feet. Be sure you're using on a clean, clayed, waxed surface and it will work really well. Other options:
Pour unused detergent down the drain.
Lint free paper towels
Newspaper is lint free.
http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/lint+free+towels+150+count.do are supposed to be lint free.
Cleaning glass / car windows
Here's the easiest technique:
This other stuff is now obsolete....
There are three steps to getting perfect glass:
This is all you need to know, but here are some other notes.
Here's the trick to cleaning glass so it is completely spotless
A less labor intensive method:
There are two methods that work well: ivory soap & water with a sponge to wipe it clean, then spray with distilled water and wipe, and then repeat. Blow dry if you are fast, otherwise it should dry without spots if you got all the detergent off.
the other way is to clean with soap & water, rinse it, dry it with a towel, then apply quick detailer and spread it. No streaks or smears. Very smooth glass and water will bead off it and it is very easy to wipe things off of it (things won't stick). Try Garry Dean's Infinite Use Detail Juice.
Claying: You can clay the glass to remove the grime and waterspots. If you do on an old car, bad idea because the clay can fill the pits and you'll never get it out (unless you are using those new type of clay rags where the clay does not "peel off").
Car polish: Car polish is much softer than the glass so you can't harm the glass. Good for getting stuff off your glass. If you really want to remove scratches from the glass you need cerium oxide. But if you are just trying to remove contaminants, then a car polish and claying should work.
If you want the finish to suitable for sealing with Aquapel or Vindico, then I suggest clay, polish, sprayway, rinse off with water, then blow dry. You can't beat blow dry because it's hard to get a good squeegee on a curved window and because a MF towel isn't going to uniformly remove all the water.
I use Sprayway glass cleaner. Spray on. Spread with a MF. Dry with MF. do one section at a time. For inside glass, spray on the wipe itself, not the winsheild. top to bottom inside.
At the car wash, they do a near perfect job with just spray and wipe with a newly washed dry towel (not even waffle weave!).
This video is excellent: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q4WwOrkgXlc
Cool tip on cleaning glass
If your window is really bad, you can use the white side of scotchbrite, use a sponge saturated with car wash or mild detergent, etc.
People rave about Sprayway. First wash your car. That gets most of the stuff. Spray Sprayway in center of the glass. Use waffle MF to spread it around. Turn the waffle MF cloth over to dry side and dry. Sprayway is also safe for computer monitor cleaning.
To check, I usually use direct sunlight. You can also use a LED flashlight and observe at all angles. I find sunlight easier.
Why your glass isn't clean
Using distilled water will minimize any spotting (no mineral deposits). Sponges don't lint and retain junk so good for applying and wiping off cleaner with water. Water spots will etch the glass, but not the car's paint.
Sponges don't lint so good for applying and wiping off cleaner with water.
Nice tutorial on glass cleaning: http://www.invisibleglass.com/HowTo.htm
Advice from http://www.autopia-carcare.com/inf-glass.html:
Glass cleaner formulas:
Is the glass really clean?
Best way to test cleaning solutions is with a scrap piece of glass.
Cleaning computer monitor
Method #3 (windshield not dirty)
Note also lots of dust in the air (you can see with a high power flashlight at night) so it will be dirty right after you clean it.
Water spots on paint
Try a quick detailer first; that might remove the spots. If that doesn't work, try a paint cleaner (e.g., a pre-wax cleaner which is less abrasive than a fine polish but will remove all residue but not harm the pain).
See How To Remove Sprinkler Water Spots which also shows how to use a paint cleaner (which will strip the wax off a car).
Spray on Vindico-N and wipe with the lint free towel to spread it (I think you can use a polyfoam sponge too). Let it dry for 5 minutes. Now buff it clear with a MF towel.
Now wait for 12 hours before testing it to be safe (at least 4 hours if outdoors). Otherwise, it will rinse off.
You'll see water bead when it is sprayed on it. Also, when you tilt the glass and the larger drops run, when they run on the Vindico, they will be intact as a round blob, but as soon as they hit untreated glass, the drop stays over the surface as it runs (creating a line of water on the glass).
Applying TPC Surface protector
Once water sheets uniformly when you spray it on, saturate the surface with water and blow dry (or use a newspaper).
Spray on TPC. Spread it with a red polyfoam applicator sponge (it will turn blue!!!) and work it like a wax. Do ONE section at a time because it dries fast! When it dries (which is quick), then buff off the excess (using water if needed (instead of a quick detailer) to make the buffing easier) to a nice clear finish.
You can also spray it on your MF towel and then wipe the surface.
You can test immediately by spraying with water. Water will bead on a flat surface, or run really fast STRAIGHT down (leaving a wake). It will also "blow off" really easily with a blower.
TPC vs. Vindico-N for making glass hydrophobic
TPC has a smaller run angle than Vindico, but Vindico, because it bonds to the glass, lasts much longer. TPC is like a wax, whereas Vindico is like 22PLE (bonds to surface).
To test the run angle, you make a big blob and then tilt the glass till the water runs down.
Only the big blobs run. Small blobs don't have enough mass to start going. This is why on a hydrophobic surface, you will see water bead up into small dots....it's because all the big dots roll down!
TPC since it is like a wax, can be applied over an unclean surface and still work just fine. Vindico-N requires surface prep because it bonds to the glass.
Bottom line: TPC doesn't last as long, but is more hydrophobic, and requires less care on surface preparation.
Using a quick detailer and Klasse SG had no real effect.
Recently released Gtechniq EXO v2 Coating (Ultra Durable Hybrid Coating version 2 (EXOv2)) works on Paint, GRP, plastics, uncoated metal, fabric, glass, stone. Water contact angle: 115 degrees (higher is better); water run-off angle: 15 degrees (lower is better). EXOv2 has a slew of improvements including more slickness, increased chemical resistance and greater hydrophobic properties. The water contact angle has been bumped from 110 degrees to 115 (and run angle went from 17 to 15 degrees). With most waxes, sealants or coatings water appears to simply slide off the surface, whereas with EXOv2 the water appears to be sprinting in fear from the surface. It is similar to 22PLE and applies in a very similar manner. Very little product is required. Durability of inorganic top layer: 2.5 years; durability of organic top layer: 1.5 year!! Immune to car washes up to pH 11.
As far as hardness goes... EXO doesn't have much. EXO is the best at dirt repelling, hydrophobicity, and gloss. The best combination for maximum protection is Gtechniq C1 overcoated with EXOv2. durability is 2 years but with good maintenance practices it will last up to 4 years. Note you need to buff it clear using short pile MF towels.
The C1 application is a bit tricky: you need to apply and remove right away (http://www.detailingworld.com/forum/showthread.php?t=226634). Caution: C1 is tricky to apply and if you do it wrong, it is painful to fix.
Vindico N® has an initial contact angle of > 105° and a run-off angle of < 20°, so you can see that Gtechniq is better.
Aquapel is 115 contact angle. Duxback is 110.
A superhydrophobic surface is >150 degress and run-off angle is <10 degrees. So EXOv2 is excellent.
WP-0NP - Nano Coating - "Hard Body" is impressive. Check out the scratch test on the bottom of this page (right half has the sealant).
Gtechniq C1 Crystal Lacquer has similar protective properties: scratch resistant and hydrophobic.
Higher contact angle, lower run angle is better.
See http://esotericcarcare.com/gtechniq-exo-v2-coating-30ml and manufacturer instructions for EXOv2 for detailed application instructions.
Best if used to overcoat C1. See Gtechniq C1 Crystal Lacquer.
Note use short fiber MF towels to remove residue and buff. More plush don't work as well.
Dawn dish soap
A drop in water makes a great cleaner for removing most greasy stains (which water will not remove).
So using this (or sprayway or invisible glass), followed by spraying with water and drying is the best way to make windows super clean.
Water spots on glass
The only thing that worked safely to remove old water spots without harming the glass was Sorbo.
Products that can be used to remove general contamination and leave the glass hydrophilic:
This page confirms using car polish to clean glass and remove scratches and another page discusses using products like Sorbo to clean water spots.
VitraClean (which is cerium oxide) should also work but I didn't try it.
Shootout results on shower door water spots (15 seconds of hand scrubbing with white pad with same pressure on each product)
I also tried 1 part vitraNova to 4 parts distilled water. spray or wipe on and start scrubbing with a white sponge. Rinse off within 30 seconds just to be safe. The chemical will soften things so the scrubber can work. BEWARE: Only use on clear (not tinted) glass because it can strip the tint, e.g., if you have green colored shower doors, stay away because you'll see a color change. This is why you always do small test spots if you are unsure. After it dried, it did not seem nearly as optically clear as the M105 or Sorbo.
All were applied with the white part of a sponge (the sponges that are listed as won't scratching glass) and required elbow grease. M105 on an orange foam pad by hand did nothing.
If CLR or LimeAway doesn't do the job, try EdFred, BarKeepersFriend, or Sorbo.
Use EdFred Shower Stall & Tile Cleaner at Orchard. Can also use this on auto paint, but remove immediately! Use with a scotchbrite pad and elbow grease and you'll remove water spots from glass; old stains will not come off just with the chemical. Then coat with Aquapel to reduce the chance of future spotting.
I've seen reports that Tabasco sauce works great. Haven't tried it.
Sorbo worked for me and it was clearly better than EdFred. It is a mild abrasive (see http://www.jracenstein.com/category/00016/oxidation-hardwater-stain-removal/) . So she trick is you must rub it in with a soft applicator. If you just let it sit there, it will do virtually nothing. Just mix the powder with water to make a paste and apply it to the surface using a soft wet towel or white nylon scrub pad.
Winsol Crystal Clear 550 is nicer but super dangerous due to etching of the tin side. It is a chemical so you do a lot less work. However, Gloves, Goggles and Protective clothing must be worn while using Crystal Clear 550. Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YpjFoN-kqIk . More info: http://www.winsol.com/550.htm However, CC550 contains hydrofluoric acid so NEVER apply it to the tin side or you will get hazing and that will be very painful and expensive to fix: http://www.wcmail.net/archives/PreFeb2003/December_2002/msg00441.html
Neither OneRestore or CC550 can burn glass. It's just not an etching compound, so it's a really important distinction that it is not the glass that is damaged-- it's the tin. See http://windowcleaningresource.com/vBulletin/stain-removal/14390-1st-big-problem-safe-restore.html. This can be fixed with http://shopwindowcleaningresource.com/glass-renu-scratch-removal-system.html
Plate glass is manufactured by floating the glass on tin. So it is not symmetrical at all. See: http://www.glassfacts.info/indexdc2d.html?fid=126 and see how under UV light you can tell which side has the tin: http://www.glassfacts.info/image1a85.html?id=82 . So this is why CC550 can haze some windows and not others: the person didn't understand which is the tin side. you can actually feel the difference ... the tin side is rougher (see http://www.boycelundstrom.com/blogs/boycelundstrom-com/5321082-fusing-with-the-float-side-up )
Cerium oxide on a polisher is another approach. Cerium oxide will also get out the scratches if they aren't too deep. This is very labor intensive however, but often much cheaper than replacing the entire windshield. See http://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&v=nC3teMQAqiA&feature=fvwp
avoid using Green scotchbrite. it will easily scratch glass if you rub hard enough (or if you use the "heavy duty" version). Use the white pads instead.
Here is another product for really hard water spots on glass. If you have really bad water spots or hard water stains ( well water rust) you can also use Cerium Oxide paste to clean it alll off and polish the glass crystal clear. You can get it at Hobby stores that carry telescopes or at Camera shops. Mix a little powder with water and make a paste. Put on like wax, scrubbing as you apply . let dry and them buff off and rinse well
Alternative is Black Diamond or Mr. Clean bathroom & shower erase but I haven't tried these.
Cerium oxide to clean glass
Polishing glass is a longer process that can generate enough heat to warp the optical quality of the windshield if not cooled properly with water. The Cerium Oxide is mixed in a paste (to peanut butter consistency), water is liberally (also the pad is denser than a paint polishing pad and needs to soak in water prior to use) applied while polishing. It can make a lot of mess/splatter. I eventually just sprang for a new windshield, because the deep pits were still there.
Use cerium oxide and a Griot's glass polishing pad... there you are really polishing the glass. a real good idea to wear a dust mask at a minimum and safety glasses and gloves wouldn't hurt either.
Note that even Mike Phillips at AutoGeek hasn't used cerium oxide. Cerium Oxide is the main compound used for removing marring and scratches in glass. But it also takes a lot of experience in order to use it correctly and safely! see http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?36261-Glass-Polishing-by-Machine-Defect-Correction:The techniques that we have been working on for glass involve the use of a rotary polisher, a 2" backing plate (Ben at Carnaubawax Shop has them ), and 2" Rayon pads (again, Ben has these, or use the ones in the kit). The pad is primed with the watery polish, and a region of about 6" square at a time is polished as follows:
* Be very careful not to bow, or break glass with too heavy pressure and at all times monitor the heat. It should never get too hot to tap by hand, perhaps a little too hot to hold for a while.
Essentially a high-speed Zenith Point technique, with a typical set lasting three or four minutes. Care was taken throughout to monitor the heat of the glass
Using cerium oxide on glass: http://www.hingmy.com/content.php?57-How-to-remove-scratches-from-window-glass
Caveats on cerium oxide: unless you know what you are doing, you will leave convex and concave areas so looking through the glass will be clear, but the images will be distorted!
More on glass
Here's another cool way that works on glass that I discovered: take a qtip in water and run it over the place you are looking. If the "spot" is on the side you put the water on, it will "disappear" then reappear when the water dries. Or use your finger to smudge the surface you think the spot is on. If you have the right surface, you'll "modify" the imperfection.
To tell when glass is clean you can see if you can "paint" it with your sponge (even a loofah). If the glass surface is clean and not treated with a water repellant, you should be able to use a sponge to "paint" a thin film of water that just stays on the glass without "breaking" even if the glass is vertical. You'll see tiny airspots that will emerge like pimples, but that is it. there will be no "breaking" of the nice thin coat. When the glass is clean, that water coat you painted with the sponge will stay a thin coat and then just dry evenly.
Green scotchbrite will absolutely scratch glass. Use the white version (e.g., scotchbrite "delicate care"). That won't scratch glass.
rocks go into your windshield at high speeds from highway driving. there is no way to prevent that or to get those tiny specks out (unless you are lucky with claying).
For hardwater stains, try these steps in order:
I found Bar Keeper's Friend to be about equivalent to Sorbo and a step above edfred and CLR. Both BKF and Sorbo work best when you create a paste and rub it in. It is the rubbing action, and not the time to work, that is by far, the difference between success and failure. I've used BKF and Sorbo to clean water spots on my Ping Pong table and BKF did the job without leaving marks that indicated the direction of scrubbing (but I may have been using a white scrotchbrite pad with the Sorbo so that might have done it). It is also much easier to work with whereas Sorbo is more "gritty." BKF can leave micro scratches on glass if you rub hard enough so be careful to use light pressure. You can also use BKF on plastic lenses on cars.
BKF is abrasive. It will scratch glass.
Sorbo is very gentle on glass. if you use it on a white pad, scratches are hard to see. If you use with a sponge, no scratches.
Vindico ultrasclean seems safe.
Vindico Vitranova won't scratch glass, but it will very quickly permanently frost it if you use at full strength.
You want to seal glass just like you seal your paint so you no longer get water spots again:
For sealing glass, the best products are from Vindico. It can last for 5 to 10 years inside; lasts for 15,000 miles on your front windshield and about 3 years on side and back windshild. The N version is what you want. TheVindico HP1 is for solar panels (and is hydrophilic which is the opposite of what you want). Lasts forever to keep water spots off, make it easy to clean, and drive easily in the rain.
Watch how it is applied and Order Vindico for shower or auto (includes the video links to the Clear View Kit and bathroom kit): http://www.vindico.info/ENG/webshop.html. Also see http://www.vindico.info/ENG/productportfolio.html for more videos.
However, they will refer you in the US to their distributor
Here's a demo of a vindico treated glass jar showing how water doesn't stick to the sealed surface: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d0VSoh4GAhw
Vindico works on vitreous products only: glass, porcelain, polished stone.
Ultra Ever Dry is really amazing. It is super hydrophobic (watch this TED video). It only lasts 2 to 8 months in direct sunlight. You can use air sprayers, pump sprayers or even finger trigger sprayers. It is translucent, it is NOT transparent. So you can't use it for car window glass like Vindico. It is also for industrial use only, not for personal use. The surface will lose it properties if treated with detergents, soap, some solvents or high pressure water. Due to the natural oils in the skin, excessive handling with bare hands of treated materials can cause a reduction in performance as can severe abrasion
A second best solution is a sealer that doesn't last nearly as long CRL TPC Surface Protectant which is better than doing LimeAway or CLR all the time. The fumes are toxic so be careful. Don't get on your skin. It lasts 3 to 6 months and costs $10 for 16 oz on Amazon. An oz covers 15 square feet of surface. So this is just the thing to use in your shower and on your bathroom fixtures (like my plated faucets) so you never have to wipe it and leave scratch marks on it.
For polishing glass, cerium oxide is the way to go to restore glass. Here's a great video from a glass cleaning professional: Window Cleaning Tips: Hard Water Stain Removal - YouTube using a scotchbrite pad (the white one) to apply the cerium oxide. Here's advice from amazon purchaser who used it on a machine (which is the best way with a pad like Griot's Garage 10614 6" Glass Polishing Pad, (Set of 3) because it is much faster, but there is a lot of splatter):
Vindico info (from Sean Lanigan of Applied Surface Technologies, LLC (920-478-2969)
NEVER LET VITANOVA DRY ON THE GLASS – ALWAYS RINSE WITH WATER
Bottom line: use Vitranova diluted by at least 1:4, test it first on scrap glass, and stay away from Vitraclean due to to the cloud (this could be de-polishing the glass need to test just putting it on then off).
I used VitraClean to clean XPEL and it permanently clouded and scratched the XPEL!!! This didn't happen with cerium oxide or M105!
Caring for PPF (like Xpel Ultimate)
A pressure washer has a tip pressure of around 1500psi,
if you use it on a car with rock chips it can and will get under the chip and
start to lift the paint! You have to stay at least 3ft back from the vehicle
which sometimes people forget to do, remember pressure washers are used to strip
paint off of houses and clean driveways, do not use on it a car with a clear
bra, it will find an edge and start to lift just like a house. Air drying is ok,
not enough energy even with heat. The latest thing in cutting think steel is
pressurized water not lasers, that give you an idea of what pressurized water
How wax works
To make buffing the wax easier, use a quick detail spray which keeps things from sticking (sort of like using wet sandpaper).
Minimizing amount of product applied with a sponge
You can dampen the sponge with water or a quick detailer (depending on instructions). Dampening a sponge with a quick detailer makes applying much easier (and buffing is easier if you spray you mf with a quick detailer).
Claying (paint, glass, chrome)
http://www.autogeek.net/detailing-clay-bar.html has excellent video.
Clay is good because it removes contaminants, but not paint. the plastic bag test after washing the car will tell you if you need to clay. Clay will remove wax and sealants so need to reseal after claying.
do 2 sq. ft section at a time.
roll into a ball, flatten it, spray both the clay bar and surface with quick detailer. when done, should be able to feel and hear it. Use MF towel to remove the clay lubricant.
Store the clay bar in its original case if possible, or in an airtight plastic bag. Spray it with lubricant to keep it moist.
clay very lightly (little to no pressure). it will scratch if you apply pressure.. u will feel it 'stick' as it passes over junk..keep going softly until it glides smoothly.
you can tell when you dont need to clay by using the back of your fingers
over the car. you can feel areas that need clay (if any).
when i clay, i just use moderate pressure in the palm of my hand. not too hard, but hard enough to get whatever you are trying to remove. as amartin says, when it glides smoothly you are finished with that area.
Detailing clay does not remove oxidized paint or fill in blemishes. If your paint is mildly oxidized, clean the paint with clay and then use a polish to remove the oxidized paint. If the oxidation is severe, polish first because the oxidized paint may flake off as you clay and ruin the clay bar. (See our polish how-to.)
junkman claims the borderless blonde towels are the best: http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=Z-BBFT-3
Waffle weave for drying, quick detailer, etc. Anything that runs (liquid)
For wax and polish, use a Zaino borderless blonde for wax and polish. Is better than any MF towel.
Using a squeegee to clean glass
The three things to remember for a perfect cleaning:
Porter cable DA car polisher
This is a fantastic link: Machine polishing tips
alway prime the pad, apply product, spread it around quickly, then go to work with light pressure.
Clean it between sections. clean DA polisher foam pad between sections with a terry towel as if you are buffing the terry towel.
You apply polishes using a foam pad, and typically use a MF towel (spritzed with a QD) to buff it after it dries. You can also buff using a MF bonnet (placed on top of a lambswool levelling pad).
wash, clay, (ideally wash again to remove any clay residue).
cord over shoulder. wipe off with MF between steps (correct, polish, wax).
orange pad: more aggressive: faster speed, wool pads. 6 for correction. Use 15 lbs pressure (light pressure). work a small area (18x18).
white pad: less aggressive: slower speed, foam pads (final polish is 1500 rpm; defect removal is 2000 rpm). 5 for polish. Lighten up the pressure as you complete the final passes (usually 6 passes...1 up, 1 down, 1 up, etc). can work
Use green pad for 1-step polish
Use red for wax (4 setting). can work on a large area. for this one, can do one handed since no pressure and move much faster. Let it dry.
use brush to remove residue if gets caked on the pad.
make sure the car is clean and dry before you start polishing. You don't want to grind in dirt.
Use plenty of lubricant on the clay and on the car (soapy water is fine).
Must be done indoors.
Trick is not to do these: car isn't clean, using too much polish, working outdoors or direct sunlight, on a hot surface, working the polisher at the wrong speed or with too much pressure (should be 9 to 14 lbs), or some combination of those issues.
Junkman video on polishing: https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&v=h_0nr6XPEHM&NR=1
Results are all in the technique as long as you are using a good product, e.g., for sealant, you want to spread product on the surface with the polisher turned off to spread it over the pad as well so when you start working everything is there.
If use extension cord, make sure it is the right gauge.
Need to buy a backplate (e.g., 5 inch backplate and 5 inch pad since easier to work but counterweight is for 6 inch). But if you use the right technique you don't need to worry about the counterweight match. backplate has velcro. Pad color tells you how the pad cuts. Look for Hex logic pad (5.5" for 5" backplate. Get orange and white. Clean the pads IMMEDIATELY after use. White is less aggressive (polish). Orange is most aggressive (remove swirls). Get 3 white pads (for shining the car), 2 orange pad (for removing damage). Wax doesn't change the shine. Shine is all about polish. Put wax on to protect the shine.
autogeek recommend using a 5 inch backing plate with 6.5 inch pads to leave a larger margin of foam between the plate and the edge of the pad. an orange light cutting pad, a white polishing pad, a gray finishing pad, the 5 inch Flexible Dual Action Backing Plate and of course, the Porter Cable 7424XP. My strategy is 1 orange (for swirls), 2 green (all in one), 2 blue (apply sealer) by ordering this kit: http://www.autogeek.net/hk7424.html
For removing swirls: Maguiars 105 (ultra-cut compound) on orange pad to remove damage from the paint. M205 (mirror glaze) polish on the white pad. shake before use. use detailer and WW MF to finish it. Polish is like soap. You want to remove all the polish off as soon as you finish applying.
Use on speed of 5 for polish. 4 pea size drops to prime the polisher. then move slowly. Better to underwork than overwork. Use very little polish. Mist pad after putting on polish. Overlap as you move. go slow.
Foam composition, stiffness and pores per inch are largely what governs cut, not hex logic pattern vs. lake country.
Plastic headlight lenses
To maintain your plastic headlight lenses and taillights, I recommend regular use of Detailer's Pro Series Plex-All. It is a combination cleaner, polish and protectant. When used regularly, Detailer's Pro Series Plex-All will protect plastic lenses and windows from UV damage.
I already have Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze so you can use that on plastics rather than buying a second product. Klasse creates an elastic, non-chip, shrink-proof, heat and scratch resistant - protective seal against ultraviolet rays, salt water, acid rain and industrial pollutants for up to 12 months. Use this glaze on all paints with or without clear coats, glass, fiberglass, Plexiglass, plastics, metal surfaces, enamel, tiles, Formica and all non-porous surfaces. It is anti-static, non-abrasive and contains no ingredients harmful to paint, metal or plastic.
Cleaning the wiper blades
Although rubber dressing helps preserve, protect and beautify the rubber and vinyl parts on your car, you should not use dressings on your wiper blades. Rubber dressing on your blades will cause streaking and smearing, impairing your vision. The best overall maintenance of your blades is keeping them clean. If you want to protect your blades, use a product like 303 Wiper Treatment. If you have expensive after-market blades, 303 Wiper Treatment will make them last twice as long. I suspect that Lexol is just fine as well.
Other options (but see section on leather care)
You can tell that the 22PLE is still on the XPEL because it will make the surface shine more than just plain Xpel film.
You could put Klasse on top of the Xpel instead for less protection. According to the Xpel website, "Unlike most paint protection films on the market, XPEL ULTIMATE Paint Protection film can be waxed and sealed just like your paint. Though XPEL Flawless Finish Paint Protection Film Sealant is still the preferred product, Any automotive wax or sealant may be used."
This makes it easier to clean and protects the Xpel film itself which I've heard can be damaged by bird droppings, etc (if you look really closely).
Glass paint nano coatings 22PLE info
In particular, bird bombs wipe right off and don't leave a stain. One person wrote:
Be sure to do an IPA wipedown using 10% alcohol. This is because the normal recommendation of 50% alcohol is a strong solution of IPA can stain and even soften some clear coat paints. High Solids Clear Coats paints are "Glycol Friendly", meaning products in the Glycol Family, which includes Isopropyl Alcohol, can and will penetrated into, soften, wrinkle and/or stain the paint. Spray it on, wipe it off with a MF towel (waffle or regular weave). It is ok to let it evaporate on the paint...it won't stain it. So you 1) don't have to worry about using a completely dry towel and 2) you don't have to worry if you spray areas other than just the paint (and plastic and chrome trim). So should take 20 minutes to wipe down the car.
According to Esoteric, a 50% dilution is what the manufacturer recommends because too light of a mixture would not remove all polish residue, which results in a poor bond with the surface. This wasn't as much of an issue with simple waxes, but is for the new coatings segment.
So there you go... damage the paint or get good adhesion...So it might be useful to test a 20% mixture on your car and see if that removes wax by testing using water on the surface.
To see if 20% is enough, do a strip with 20% and a strip with 50% on the same place (e.g., front hood), and look at water beading angle and the run angle. If they are the same, you probably got all the wax off.
If you're referring to something like prep-solv, that would probably work as well.
My tips on using 22PLE
The rubber stopper at the top was a real bear to get off. I'm not the only one who had this problem: http://professionaldetailing.com/22ple-vx1-review/
Take utmost care using dust free foam applicators and lint free MF wipe off towels that have been through at least one wash cycle using MF washing detergent.
Nano diamond shield hardens
to 4-H while Opti-coat hardens to 9-H, which is why I chose it for the paint.
It's more resistant to fine scratches which is a must for black cars.
Read more: http://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-second-generation/612737-nano-diamond-shield.html#ixzz2SHV1VbLt
http://www.amazon.com/Nano-Diamond-Shield/dp/B0058UJJHC has very mixed reviews.
Diamond shield is like rain-x on
steroid. Apply it correctly and it'll last longer.
looks very interesting and from a credible source and very easy to apply, but it
isn't very hard (protects against light scratches).
You could also use Klasse on glass and plastic (it is only recommended for painted surfaces though), but aquapel is really the proven product for front windshields and vindico is even better than aquapel. if you are going faster than 35 mph, you will not need wipers! It is much better than RainX.
Use Wolfgang Instant Detail Spritz to make the application (spray on the polyfoam) and buffing (use the plush side of the MF and spray with the Detail Spritz) easier. Use polyfoam sponge to apply since lint free. See http://www.autogeek.net/klashiggloss1.html for instructions
These are the best instructions I've found: http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-Pro/klasse-high-gloss-sealant-glaze-ksg-guide-and-review/
There are other products like C1, Opti-Coat, and CQuartz but since Klasse is just once a year, that's hard to beat. See http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-detailing-product-discussion/133474-cquartz-vs-c1-vs-opti-coat-initial-findings-observations-autolavish.html for a comparison of these products.
But 22PLE is much better protection.
I like the Dr. colorchip kit a bit more, especially the squeegee optional accessory which is really clever for not spreading the paint all over the car (see http://crxcommunity.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=52141 )
Do polish, do not wax, then do Dr. Colorchip. See http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yhBE0kt4Cv0 . let paint sit for 5 to 10 minutes.
See also this FAQ before doing the repair: http://www.drcolorchip.com/faq-general-information.php. The paint has a 1 year shelf life. Do not wax for a week. Prepare surface by washing and then with rubbing alcohol. Need a clean dry surface.
I think the key is to prep the (removing all the wax residue, etc...) and wipe the newly applied paint immediately until it is smooth and flat and then give it ample time to dry. Then, using their finisher liquid, you can't rub or you will take off your new paint..just gotta wipe gently until the excess comes off.
See http://scratchwizard.net/dr-colorchip-does-it-work/ for caveats (works less well on silver paint or if the chip is larger than an eraser head).
My color color for my 2013 Silver is PMSS Starlight Silver Metallic aka SAN SIMEN SILVER. See http://www.automotivetouchup.com/touch-up-paint/tesla
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H5iIx9UBzA8 is a review of ScratchWizard (someone using it).
Scratches (like keyed cars)
ScratchWizard claims to be great, but I couldn't find any reviews anywhere.
Dents & Dings in Campbell, CA is very highly rated shop if you want professional results.
22PLE products: glass coatings for paint (alternative to full paint armor)
See http://esotericcarcare.com/22PLE/. People are raving about this. This is the cheaper, but less protective alternative to Xpel Ultimate. Last 2 years. 30ml will cover the entire car easily.
Use for paintwork, rims, metal trim and plastic trims.
One reviewer wrote:
The high silica-content glass coatings are applied to the paint in a thin layer as a liquid, and once cured, 22ple literally leaves a hardened glass barrier between the paint (or other protected areas) and the harmful elements. So not only does this glass barrier provide a brilliant gloss and shine, it offers a level of protection to your car that can’t be equaled by any wax or sealant. While most carnauba waxes last only a month or two, and sealants upwards of 4-6 months, you can expect 18-24 months durability with 22ple Glass Coating!
Paint armor (paint protection films PPF)
StarShield is the installation company Tesla has contracted with to install the clear protector. Avery is the film used on the Tesla.
Surprisingly, you want to put sealer over the paint armor
Avery Nano Fusion film is what they use. http://www.nanofusionfilm.com.
many owners are going for the Xpel Ultimate. I paid $1395 for full front coverage - XPEL Ultimate, full hood, full fenders, full bumper, full nose cone, and side mirrors. All edges fully wrapped. XPEL Ultimate is self healing. If you scratch it, come back 20 minutes later it is gone. Best product on the market. It carries a 10 year warranty against, yellowing, cracking, peeling, staining, and hazing, covering both film and labor. XPEL ULTIMATE is truly the most revolutionary Paint Protection Film ever invented! Depending on how the film is cared for, the clear coat can last indefinitely. Regular washing and waxing will keep the clear coat in top condition for years to come. If ordinary car wash or soap and water will not remove a stain, there are a variety products available to do the job. In most cases simple isopropyl rubbing alcohol will remove anything on the surface of the film. See http://locator.xpel.com/ for a list of dealers.
In my case, Force Field, he's local in San Jose, his name is Greg Simms 408-691-6791. He does wraps for the local Ferrari dealers! He only does Xpel Ultimate because NOTHING else comes close for a paint protection film (PPF). $6500 to wrap the entire car; $2000 for just the front end. So if money is no object PPF's are clearly the way to go (unless you spend your time showing off your car at car shows). But a more practical option would be to Xpel the front end, and use 22PLE for the rest of the car.
Here are the questions I had:
Most films on the market are around the same thickness. Between 8-8.5mils(.008"). And very few of them can resist yellowing. Yellowing is caused when contaminates get into the pores of the film giving it a yellowish hue. The solution for yellowing is to prevent contaminates from sticking to the film. The two ways Ultimate accomplishes this are with having low surface energy and solvent resistance. Having low surface energy makes the film slippery and resistant to things sticking to it. It's similar to the way teflon pans work. And, like Stealth 993 said it's also solvent proof. If something does happen to stick to it you can use practically anything to remove the contaminants or debris including acetone or lacquer thinner.
Unlike most paint protection films on the market, XPEL ULTIMATE Paint Protection film can be waxed and sealed just like your paint. Though XPEL Flawless Finish Paint Protection Film Sealant is still the preferred product, Any automotive wax or sealant may be used.
The 3M crystaline will yellow over time. The Avery will not. The Avery film comes with a lifetime warranty against the yellowing. For installers, see: http://www.cleardefender.com/certified-installer
Paint protection films are meant to be applied and left on the vehicle as a shield for up to 5 years.
Most paint protection film is UV transparent so the rate of fading on the paint below should be the same. It's also why it's important to put wax or paint sealer on the whole car, including the wrapped parts, to add UV protection and to make sure that the paint fades the same (no tan lines).
Advice on caring for PPFs in general, although XPEL is self healing (very impressive if you key it):
Lubricate first, then apply clay while lubricating. Do not use water.
After clay is dirty, fold the clay in.
Press hard only if you need to. Stop when feel smooth. Wash car after claying.
wipe off with waffle weave.
Clay removes water spots (early), bird poop, other contamination.
wash, clay, (option wash). Use hand in plastic bag to check. polish will not remove the same kind of stains.
some people use polish afterwards because clay can mar the surface since it is slightly abrasive.
clay is abrasive and while not as abrasive as polishing by machine, it can indeed remove some of a wax or sealant. Just consider your rubbing something against your paint. It is best to wash, clay, polish (or paint cleanser on well kept paint) and protect.
Paint cleanser is like a very fine polish.
Mounting front license plate options
Cleaning cloth seats in my Nissan
Use1:1 for engine degreasing, 10:1 for carpet cleaning, 20:1 for cleaning interior plastics/trim, you name it. Very versatile, the gallon jug will last a LONG time.
A cheaper and perhaps better alternative is: Tuff Stuff Multi Purpose Foam Cleaner for Deep Cleaning. When it foams it pulls dirt out. We finalize it with a little spray of water and wet/dry vac so we don't leave any soap in the vehicle.
Using a spray detailer to remove Light Dust, Fingerprints and Smudges
Leather care instructions from Swissvax manual
The glaze will not cause water to bead, but it will prevent water and oil from soaking "into" the leather. First try to wipe off oils, etc. with damp MF, or use the cleaner. If the oils don't come off, it's likely time to clean and re-glaze.
The Swissvax heavy duty cleaner will strip the glaze, but the normal light duty cleaner will not.
Glaze depending on usage. If you use car often and have oily hands, you might need to re-glaze the steering wheel every 3 months and the seats every 6 months.
Glazing need test: sprinkle a few drops of water, let sit for 5 seconds, then wipe the surface dry. Uncoated leather will absorb the water pretty quickly and there will be a dark spot in that area. With coated leather, the water pretty much stays on the surface and either evaporates (if thin layer), or you wipe it right off leaving no trace at all on the leather.
Clean: 1. Shake the bottle thoroughly before use.2. Spray Leather Cleaner onto a clean cotton cloth or directly onto the surface to be cleaned. Applying medium pressure, wipe the surface in one direction only. 3. Clean stubborn soiling by spraying on Leather Cleaner and working it in with a Swissvax Cleaning Brush in a circular motion. 4.Wipe dry in one direction with a soft cotton cloth. Do not rub! 5. Allow leather to dry completely and then treat with Leather Milk.
Milk: 1. Remove dirt with leather cleaner 2. Shake the bottle thoroughly before use. 3. Apply Swissvax Leather Milk evenly with a dry cotton cloth or a Swissvax Cotton Applicator (white). 4. Leave to soak in and do NOT BUFF it. See http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/blog/2012/05/swissvax-leather-milk-demo-video/
Glaze: 1. Clean the leather with Swissvax Leather Cleaner. Degrease and clean areas to be treated with leather ben - zine (orlighter fluid). 2. After cleaning or dyeing the leather, apply a thin coat of Leather Glaze carefully using a clean sponge applicator, working from seam to seam. 3. Repeat the above step, if necessary. 4. Staining from clothing may still appear, but it can now be easily removed as it is left on the Leather Glaze coating and not on the leather itself. 5. The next day, treat the leather with Swissvax Leather Milk (unless you already did because these instructions are meant for standalone use; the order really doesn't matter but it is interesting that the manufacturer isn't consistent about the order). DO NOT BUFF.
Tesla uses Nappa leather on the Model S with a protective coat. Nappa leather is a kind of aniline leather, so an aniline leather maintenance kit would be perfect to care for your Nappa leather goods.
So since I don't get stuff dirty, I'll just start with cleaner, Milk, and Glaze. per Swissvax manual:
These three articles are the best I've seen (written by Togwt):
Hydration of finished leather says you want to keep the leather moist. That is the #1 thing. You don't need any product to do that other than a fine mister and distilled water (since only water vapor will penetrate the urethane coating). And you never want to over hydrate the leather (like leave the window open when it rains). That will destroy it. This is why Tesla is right about using a damp cloth with water. This is key!
Ensure that the surface of the finished leather is clean and dust-free. Fill a fine mist atomizer spray bottle (Kwazar Mercury Pro) with distilled water; lightly mist the surface and then using a damp 100% cotton towel wipe the surface.
Monthly leather hydration of cars in Florida, Texas and Arizona, especially during the summer months, would not be out of line. In a northern climate or during winter months the interval between conditioning could be extended 90 to 120 days.
Do not overhydrate (leave the window open in a rainstorm or leave wet). hen they dry they may not shrink back and revert to their original form and so become more brittle and distorted. Unfortunately at this stage it may be impossible to rectify. Although water (hydration) is good for leather and is what keeps it in good condition generally when its fibres become over soaked they swell and become deformed. When they dry they may not shrink back and revert to their original form and so become more brittle and distorted. Unfortunately at this stage it may be impossible to rectify.
Hydration occurs from an elevated moisture level in close proximity to the leather. Leather likely absorbs more moisture through the back side than the top side. Moisture is the lifeblood of leather and the elevated humidity level in the vicinity of the leather is what restores the softness and suppleness of leather I don't for a minute think any oils or waxes penetrate that topcoat.
Leather is severely stressed in automotive use. It sees temperatures from below zero to over 150 degrees F. When it gets hot it loses moisture. When it dries out it shrinks and when it re-hydrates the fibers swell and return to normal. This process causes wrinkles, creases and after a while cracks in the topcoat. Avoid heat and the sun as much as possible, is about all one can do
Note that the water vapor makes total sense. This is why Leatherique works so well: they tell you to leave it in a HOT car. That's so the water vapor penetrates. I wonder if you could put distilled water in a water vapor machine and achieve the same effect?
Leather restoration: tells you how to restore the color and to restore the topcoat. Basically:
Removing stains from leather has various products such as:
Leather Master Leather Barrier is like the Protective Cream, but it provides additional protection against dye transfer so perfect for light colored seats. Amazon reviews confirm it works.
The soft cleaner isn't much better than a damp cloth according to Amazon reviews, so if the leather isn't dirty, can just use a damp cloth.
The Leather Master Universal Cleaner is especially made for p type "protected" leathers.
Leather cleaner and conditioner (this is old. see Leather care)
You can tell if it is real leather because you will (eventually) be able to cracking in real leather. Fake leather doesn't crack.
Easiest to use a damp MF towel as tesla recommends.
Good idea to use a leather cleaner (to get off the oils of your hands, etc) and conditioner (to keep the leather from drying out and cracking). You an use a leather conditioner on vinyl, rubber, tires, wipers, But not vice versa.
Lexol conditioner seems very popular. Unlike most, doesn't eat the stitching. The non-light leather (like the dash) isn't real leather. But it doesn't matter much since you can use all the leather products on vinyl safely (you may just be wasting your money if you use leatherique on vinyl though).
Lexol: most like it; a few think it leave sticky residue, but it didn't for me.
Leatherique: tricky to put on: cover your seatbelts with cling wrap film and cover your carpets with old towels as this stuff will stain belts and carpets. Needs to bake for many hours at a high temperature. People love the results. Restores really bad leather.
Zaino Z-9 and Z-10: seem very easy to use and inexpensive. Unless your leather is in bad shape,Zaino should be fine.
Here's the confusing thing:
Microfiber care tips
To Reboot the touchscreen: hold down both scroll wheels for 8 secs
If your recent calls don't sync, unpair at the car and at the iPhone (remove the devices). Then start over. Don't ask me why this works.
Light grey part is leather. The darker (like on the dash) is synthectic leather and requires no maintenance.
Clean with non-detergent soap.
To clean touch screen, use a rich MF and fold over so no capacitance and it won't actuate the touch screen. I use just a MF moistened with distilled water and it is enough to take out fingerprints which was surprising.
The dot matrix on the touch screen is the touch sensors (can see in the proper light).
UV winshield is in the glass (In particular, the windshield of the S looks clear but includes a solar shield film in the sandwich to reduce UV and heat load through that large, horizontal-equivalent area). So if you use Fastrak, then you must order the license plate mount on-line. Don't mount the standard fasTrak transponder in the nose. It is NOT waterproof. Use the license plate. Note that you will need to use screws that are longer than the the stock ones (by about the width of the FasTrak transponder).
Only 2500 contacts allowed. Not sure if Tesla will fix this. On some iPhones, can goto Bluetooth>Tesla, and pick contact group to sync
Brake noise is normal if pump brake (hydraulic refresh).
I got my parking sensors installed by Sound Innovations in Hayward, CA ((510) 471-9062). First class job. Couldn't be happier. Get the visual indicator (lights) option. You will be sorry if you don't. This allows the annoying beeps to warn you once, rather than continuously. Go for the wide placement of the sensors.
Paint code can be found on your drivers door on the tire pressure sticker at the very bottom (PNT: PMSS means my paint code is PMSS). Cold pressure if 45psi.
Ask Tesla about conditioning/cleaning the wiper blades: how to position to do this.
Auto Geek orders
I also ordered Simoniz clay magic bar from Amazon since autogeek didn't carry it (just the bar since I can use quick detailer as the clay lubricant).
And I ordered a Dr. Colorchip system.from Dr. Colorchip.
Qty Product Code - Product Name Price
2 LC-99-BIGBLUE - Lake Country Foam Car Wash Sponge 11.98
1 GG-DUAL-C-1 - Grit Guard® Dual Bucket Washing System - 119.99
(Wash and Rinse)
1 MG-CART - Meguiar's Detailing Cart 149.99
1 AQ-47100 - Aquapel Glass Treatment & Rain Repellent 7.99
1 GMP-7601 - Glass Master Pro Glass and Surface Cleaner 19.99
1 DP-75Q - Detailer's Quart Foamaster Foam Gun 59.99
1 DP-801 - 128 oz. Detailer's Xtreme Foam Formula 54.98
1 G-03V - Single Brass Connector Shut Off Valve 6.99
1 G-09QC - Brass Quick Connector Set 9.99
1 G-09QCM-3 - 3 Qty Brass Male Quick Connects 12.99
1 COBRA-WW1627 - Waffle Weave Microfiber Glass Towel 9.99
1 COBRA-600DLX-3 - 3 Qty 16x24 Inch Super Plush Deluxe M 29.99
1 PIN-620 - 16 oz. Pinnacle Micro Rejuvenator Microfiber 14.99
1 KL-02 - 16.9 oz. Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze 19.99
1 MC-79GY - Grey Supreme Micro-Chenille Wash Mitt 9.99
1 PIN-100 - 16 oz. Pinnacle Bodywork Shampoo 24.99
1 WG-4500 - 16 oz. Wolfgang Instant Detail Spritz w/Spra 19.99
1 MV-MB-3CD - Metro Master Blaster 8hp 339.99
1 MF-SS7525G-6 - 6 Qty Super Soft Deluxe Microfiber Towe 17.99
2 WA-100 - Yellow Foam Wax Applicator 3.98